第三节 海豹猎人之死
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三十年前。毕业旅行到兰屿。
出国能够搭小飞机，飞过浩渺的烟波，到一个与世隔绝、景观完全不同的小岛，真是令我兴奋极了。
更兴奋的是见到兰屿的原住民，穿着丁字裤，推着两头尖尖的船，夜里，在海上起火把，引来飞鱼。
黑黑的夜色中，海上火把的光亮闪烁，风吹来，浪打来，站在海边的感觉真美。
最难忘的，是我班上一位女生收了个兰屿的女孩做干妹妹。
虽然才认识几天，那小女孩却体贴地对干姐姐说：“回去多穿衣服吧，西风起了，你会受凉的。”
我更永远忘不了，她那无邪的脸孔，和她说的：
“姐姐，你知道吗？我们兰屿人都好穷、好短命，日本人以前把我们隔离起来，故意不教育我们，拿我们当原始人类的橱窗，害我们到现在还这么落后……”
二十多年前。到台湾南部一个城市。
经过一条路，路中间居然有口井。
“这是一口古井，被保护的文物。”当地的朋友对我说，“可是这么多年来，它在这儿，真不方便，也真危险，已经有好几个人，夜里骑机车，因为撞到这口井，死了。”
十几年前。
到台湾北部的一个小镇。
镇上有所著名的庙宇，香火鼎盛。
庙旁是条老街，走在其中，如同进入历史。
“真美!”我说，“保护得真好。”
“可是你知道吗？因为是古迹，政府规定要保护，不准改建。”当地的人对我笑笑，“结果房子愈来愈老，又阴又湿，住在里面很多人得了风湿和气喘。尤其害怕的是哪一天，地震来了，百年老屋垮了，我们全得压死在里面。”
前年，在《读者文摘》上看到一篇《海豹猎人之死》。
在加拿大北极小村里住了一家猎人。
男主人皮泰图靠猎取环斑海豹为生，每张海豹皮可以卖到十一美元。
但是一九七五年秋天，全世界的人都在电视上看到一段惊心动魄的新闻影片。那是绿色和平（Greenpeace）组织带着记者团去拍摄的，拍下爱斯基摩人猎取海豹的残酷镜头。
新闻媒体大力炒作，电影明星和欧美的政治人物也加入保护行动。绿色行动组织的总裁罗勃特·亨特提出警告：“如果不禁猎，格陵兰海豹将在五年内绝种。”
这个号称“心灵炸弹”的新闻爆发开来，一九八三年欧洲议会在舆论的压力下终于宣布禁止幼海豹皮在欧洲出售。
不卖幼海豹皮，整个海豹的皮毛市场都崩溃了。
没有人再买海豹皮衣，猎海豹者被看成刽子手，虽然——
加拿大野生动物基金会会长说：“我们并不担心格陵兰海豹会绝种。”受委托调查的人道机构，也发现猎杀海豹的方法并非不人道。
加拿大北极圈的猎人断了生计，十一年内有一百五十二人自杀。
皮泰图有一天离开家，挥手向妻子道别，这是他结婚以来第一次这样道别。
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