第五百六十七章 成衣铺子
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郑嬷嬷的朱正没了,不好跟鬟儿开玩笑,但是刘嬷嬷也看不上鬟儿:“你们大家都听说过无赖这个词儿吧?咱们眼前就有一个大号无赖。云主子拿来什么好东西,福晋还没看呢,鬟儿就想归了自己。不害臊!”
“您干吗?调三窝四的?没说吗?这两位是鬟儿的婶娘?鬟儿可是晚辈,长辈的不得让着晚辈吗?”
福晋说:“今天我还就不让着你了,这么漂亮的花布都归我了,你连边儿也别想摸!”
“摸摸边儿,摸一下好吗?”鬟儿做出一副可怜兮兮的样子,把大家都逗笑了。
云儿说:“侄儿媳妇别着急,等裁剪剩下的可能给你一块肚兜布。”
鬟儿做晕厥状,众人大笑。
“别急啊,咱们先做几件样衣,看看效果,好了呢,每人一件花旗袍,穿上跟花大姐一样漂亮。”云儿也跟着逗趣。
做丝绸旗袍很麻烦,丝绸比较软滑很不好做。但是也不是不能做,要是掌握了做丝绸布料的方法还是很好做的。做丝绸布料最把握的要数从宫里的尚衣局出来的几位裁缝嬷嬷。福晋把她们四个人找来翼然楼,说明情况,几个人乐颠颠地就接受了任务,拿着福晋写的尺寸、带着布料回去做了。
半个十天以后来交差,不愧是尚衣局出来的裁缝,做出来的丝绸旗袍真是让人羡慕。如果她们是府上庄子来的包衣奴仆,福晋可能会考虑让她们使用缝纫机。但是宫里来的让福晋很难信任她们,弄不好是太后派来的眼线,今天让她们使用缝纫机,可能明天都不到,太后就知道了。可惜了这个技艺!不过福晋也是有办法的,从自己院里抽调四名包衣出身的三等丫鬟到四位裁缝嬷嬷那里当徒弟。从尚衣局出来就没有可能回宫了,就算是太后的眼线,回宫也没多大的指望。既然表示过愿意在府上一直服侍下去,那就给几个徒弟培养培养。先前给过几个,不那么认真教,生怕教会徒弟饿死师傅。但是这次福晋跟她们说了,王爷在经商,给国库装银子,参与加工布艺的姑娘嬷嬷都能有加工费,前提是要认真做,要服从云主子调遣。因为所以买来的做活材料都是用云主子的银子。
几位裁缝嬷嬷也听说过前后院两位女主子身边服侍的人已经参与到王爷的经商大业中了,学了不少样的布艺技艺。作为裁缝,就是跟布匹、布料打交道,也很想学点新技艺。可是如果主子给了几个徒弟不肯认真教,人家也不会把技艺教给自己的,来而不往非礼也,这个道理谁都懂的。所以几位裁缝嬷嬷一改以前的骄傲,不再推诿、敷衍,把自己的技艺如数地教给福晋院里的几位三等丫鬟。她们本人也曾学过八位教习嬷嬷讲的异域技艺,觉得一还一报还算合算。
样衣做出来了,衣服的主人穿着也很合身,云儿就拿出来一百件丝绸旗袍的布料,用几位学艺的三等丫鬟学来的做丝绸服装的方法,
丝绸面料很光滑,裁剪之前先喷水,这样布料就不容易滑动了。几位裁缝嬷嬷都是裁剪方面的老油子了,嘴里含一口水喷出去,象雾一样,是个功夫。云儿受了启发,想到自己买来的电熨斗里有一种熨衣上浆液可以用来做丝绸服装。
还有一个办法是裁剪的案子上绷紧一块棉布,先裁剪单片,再用别针按照经纬转圈别好,裁剪第二片。如果是用缝纫机缝制,为了防止皱缩,就同时放松底、面线的张力,减少压脚的压力;还可以在两层布料上面垫一张大拇指宽的薄纸条,随着衣料一起缝,然后撕掉。如果是两种办法结合着用效果更好,并且左手稍稍拉紧上下两层布料,随着缝纫机的速度均匀前进。丝绸衣料比棉布难做多了,不会使用缝纫机的都是在多年的摸索中掌握了制作丝绸的技艺,所以不肯轻易传授与人。
在几位教习嬷嬷的共同努力下,用了半个月的时间,使用缝纫机加工,半个月的时间做了三十几套化纤丝绸旗袍,拿到新开业的“玉龙成衣店”去出售。因为丝绸的本身价格就很低,再使用了缝纫机这种机械,化纤丝绸旗袍以六两银子一件的价格开始试售。开始的一两天因为店铺是新开张的,几乎无人问津,可是第三天开始,一下子就达到人员爆满。女同袍们几乎没有问价的就把所有的丝绸旗袍给买走了。真是所有的,一件都没剩,出门就说太便宜了。
那就加价出售,半个月以后,每件旗袍配一个礼品盒,扎上彩带,售价十两银子,可坏了,礼品盒比旗袍都受欢迎了。甚至有人单买礼品盒。每个礼品盒里都有一对色彩斑斓的漂亮香囊。云儿没想到的是大鼻子的西方人也很喜欢,一句都不讲价地给买走了。
这个生意就继续做了。不光是化纤丝绸旗袍,也有纯棉花布旗袍、织锦缎旗袍。然后陆续增加新内容,这里成了另外一个玉龙布庄,天天人满为患。云儿还以为大清的人比较贫困,买不起昂贵的成衣呢。
在福晋的一再鼓励下,云儿设计了一个系列的专门为汉家女孩和小媳妇穿的夏装,都是浅淡颜色的纱料裙装。既有大清的女装特色,也有汉家女子喜欢的、略带明朝服装的特色。就是上身稍窄,裙子略肥,能覆盖脚面的长裙。上身的满装特色比较浓:从左肩到右腋下是三道牙子,如果是月白色面料,牙子就是淡蓝色、淡紫色,中间的一道牙子是稍稍宽一点的织锦彩牙,两边的是相等距离的珍珠效果的彩珠;裙子下摆底边往上一寸半的一圈是相等距离的丝带绣小花,颜色也是淡彩的,花心里有一颗白色珠子。裙子的面料是完全不透明的弹力纱,很有悬垂感,上面的褶子是纺织的时候就压上的,完全等距。裙子抻开之后非常宽大,里面还有一层衬裙。给人的感觉就是简单而大气,素雅而富贵。在玉龙布庄试卖之后,受到很多满汉女性的喜爱。第二天就有大批订货的客商来订货了,其中有客商说这是给江南女子量身定做的。朴实无华中透着端庄大气!<();
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