922【三昧真火】
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众人坐了半天的车就转为乘船，历史上，由于囊中羞涩，南怀瑾和钱吉足足走了八天才到自贡。他们在朋友的坟前拜祭后，又去城里转了一圈，突然发现钱花光了，只好结伴去李宗吾家打秋风。
现在有舟车之利，一天一夜便到了自流井。
南怀瑾来到朋友坟前，顿时大哭道：“四眼仔，你死得真冤啊！”
明明上坟是件很悲伤的事，周赫煊听了直想笑。坟里埋的可是个和尚啊，听南怀瑾说，还是个道士转密宗再转禅宗的老和尚，他居然叫人家“四眼仔”。
南怀瑾拜了一拜，又说：“四眼仔，如果有一天抗战胜利了，我回浙江的时候，一定把你的骨头烧了带回去。”
钱吉也拜了拜，安慰道：“节哀吧！”
南怀瑾起身自言自语：“我让他别吃那么多白蜡，他非得吃，现在可好了，说不定是被活埋的。”
“白蜡是什么鬼？”周赫煊问。
南怀瑾解释道：“老和尚入定困难，喜欢把白蜡拌在稀饭里吃，说这样更容易入定。”
周赫煊道：“长期吃白蜡，他说不定是心肌梗塞或脑淤血死的。”
南怀瑾愣了愣，居然点头说：“也有可能。这样说来我还更好受些，至少他不是被徒弟活埋的。”
出家人似乎早就对生死看淡了，已经还俗的钱吉也不例外。他数百里远跑来上个坟，拜了之后立即恢复正常，洒脱地说：“别留这儿了，怪没意思的，咱们到处去转转。”
南怀瑾同样洒脱，说走就走，连头也不回。他一边走还一边怀念：“四眼仔是我在杭州认识的，当时他教我佛法，我教他拳法，以往之事历历在目。”
周赫煊笑问：“你拳法很厉害吗？”
“一般般，对付普通人尚可，”南怀瑾笑道，“听说李宗吾先生自创了一套无极拳，这回我可要去找他切磋。”
李宗吾也会武术？
周赫煊有些无语，这帮民国奇人还真是多才多艺啊。
民国时期的自贡非常小，仅自流进和贡井隔河相望那一片，但景象却颇为壮观。
放眼望去，密密麻麻全是采盐的天车，到处蒸汽腾腾，似乎空气当中都弥漫着一股盐味。嗯，还有屎味，牛屎的味道。
整个自贡再加上富顺，估计是除了大草原之外，全国产牛最多的地方，因为牛大量用于采盐。老死病死的牛被吃掉，牛粪也可以当燃料，明清时代虽然禁止杀牛，但这里的人却把吃牛肉看得稀松平常。
顺便一提，自贡的牛肉烹饪属于一绝，最有名的就是火边子牛肉。
盐商们有钱啊，古代也没啥娱乐，那就变着法的斗富享受呗。火边子牛肉最正宗的做法，是切小牛腰上最嫩的肉，用秘制的酱汁腌制，再切成半透明状，前后多达数十道工序。
周赫煊也是第一次参观传统制盐方法，颇为稀奇地在盐场里四处溜达。
南怀瑾很快找到好玩的，他站在盐灶前，不断揭起瓦片又放下，揭开火燃，盖上火灭，简直堪称全自动。反复弄了十多次，火终于被他搞灭了，南怀瑾伸手一探，被天然气冰得手麻，他感慨道：“这是地下阴火，我们平时用柴烧的是阳火，太阳燃烧的是真火。”
周赫煊听得想翻白眼，就普通的地下天然气，怎么就扯上三昧真火了？
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