第490节
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“好！好！”七姑奶奶好热闹，连连说道：“我从小生长在上海，三牌楼的菜圆子，只闻其名，没有见过，今天倒真要尝尝。更多小说ltxsba.com”
“三牌楼菜圆子有好几家，一定要徐寡妇家的才好。”
“喔，好在什么地方？”
原来上海称元宵的汤圆为圆子。三牌楼徐寡妇家的圆子，货真价实。有那省俭的顾客，一碗肉圆子四枚，仅食皮子，剩下馅子便是四个肉圆，带回家用白菜粉条同烩，便可佐膳。
但徐寡妇家最出名的却是菜圆子，“她说有秘诀，说穿了也不稀奇。”
螺蛳太太说：“我去吃过几回，冷眼看看，也就懂了。秘诀就是工要细、拣顶好的菜叶子，黄的、老的都不要，嫩叶子还要抽筋，抽得极干净，滚水中捞一捞，斩得极细倒在夏布袋里把水分挤掉，加细盐、小磨麻油拌匀，就是馅子。皮子用上好水磨粉，当然不必说。”
“那么……”七姑奶奶恰好有些饿了，不由得咽了口唾沫，惹得螺蛳太太笑了。
“七姐，我老实告诉你，那种净素的菜圆子，除了老太太以外，大家都是偶尔吃一回还可以，一多，胃口就倒了。”螺蛳太太又说：“我自己也觉得完全不是三牌楼徐家的那种味道。”
糟钵头是上海道地的所谓“本帮菜”，通常只有今天才有，用猪肚、猪肝等等内脏，加肥鸡同煮，到够火候了，倾陶钵加糟，所以称之为“糟钵头。”
糟青鱼切块，与黄芽菜同煮作汤菜，即是“川糟。”
“那么，你觉得比陶阿大的是好，还是坏？”
“当然不及陶阿大的。”螺蛳太太说：“不然，我也不会这么想了。”
“只怕现在不会象你所想的那样子好。”
“喔，”螺蛳太太问道：“莫非换过老板？”
“菜圆子我没有吃过，县衙前陶阿大的糟钵头，我没有得病以前是吃过的。去年腊月里五哥从松江来了，还特为去吃过。人家做得兴兴旺旺的生意，
为啥要换老板？“
“那么，”螺蛳太太也极机警，知道七姑奶奶刚才的话，别有言外之意，便即追问：“既然这样子，你的话总有啥道理在里头吧？”
七姑奶奶想了一下说：“我是直性子，我们又同亲姐妹一样。我或者说错了，你不要怪我。”
“哪里会！七姐，你这话多余。”
“我在想，做菜圆子，或者真的有啥诀窍。至于糟钵头，我在想，你家吃大俸禄的大司务，本事莫非就不及陶阿大？说到材料，别的不谈，光是从绍兴办来的酒糟，这一点就比陶阿大那里要高明了。所以府上的糟钵头，决不会比陶阿大来得差。然而，你说不及陶阿大的糟钵头这里啥道理。”
“七姐！”螺蛳太太笑道：“我就是问你，你怎么反倒问我？”
“依我看，糟钵头还是当年的糟钵头，罗四姐不是当年的罗四姐了。”
七姑奶奶紧接着说：“四姐，我这话不是说你忘本，是说此一时，彼一时。
这番道理，也不是我悟出来的，是说书先生讲的一段故事，唐朝有个和尚叫懒残……“
讲了懒残和尚煨竿的故事，螺蛳太太当然决不会觉得七姑奶奶有何讽刺之意，但却久久无语，心里想得根深。
这时瑞香已带了小大姐来铺排餐桌，然后将七姑奶奶扶了起来，抬坐在一张特制的圈椅上，椅子很大，周围用锦垫塞紧，使得七姑奶奶不必费力便能坐直，前面是一块很大的活动木板，以便置放盘碗，木板四周镶嵌五分高的一道“围墙”，以防汤汁倾出，而流得到处都是。
那张圈椅跟“小儿车”的作用相同，七姑奶奶等瑞香替她系上“围嘴”
以后，自嘲地笑道：“无锡人常说‘老小，老小’，我真是愈老愈小了。”
“老倒不见得。”螺蛳太太笑道：“皮肤又白又嫩，我都想摸一把。”
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