第十五章 斯奈弗山顶
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我应该说叔父一直尽量地靠近我，他从来不让我跑到他的视线以外，他的手臂好几次给了我有力的支持。至于他自己，显然有一种平衡的天赋，因为他从来没有摔倒过。三位冰岛人不管身背多少行李，还是象生来就是爬山者那样精力旺盛地往上爬。
我看到斯奈弗山峰的高度时，感到似乎不可能从边缘上爬到上面去，除非斜坡不象现在这样陡峭。很幸运地，经过—小时的劳动和困难的斗争以后，在盖满了火山肩部的一大片雪中间，出乎意料地出现了一条梯级似的东西，它使我们的登山方便不少。这是在火山爆发时喷射出来的、当地人民称为“斯丹那”的、几条奔流的石子中的一条所形成的。如果这一条奔流的石子没有形成山上这种形式的山路，它可能掉到海里形成新的岛屿。
这种形式的山路帮了我们很大忙；斜坡的陡峭程度继续增加，可是这些台阶使我们很容易地登山，而且可以快得在别人往上爬时，只要我在后面稍微停顿了一分钟，就看到他们已经变得很小了。
当天晚上七点钟，我们已经在这个“梯级”上爬了两千级，最后我们站在一块圆丘上面，可以说陷口尽端的圆锥体就是从这块圆丘上升的。
下面的海有三千二百英尺宽；我们已在雪线以上，这条雪线在此地的纬度上讲并不算太高，可是气候很潮湿。此地冷极了，而且刮着很大的风。我已经精疲力竭；教授见我已经不能再走，不管他如何着急，他也停了下来。他做手势叫向导也停下来，可是向导摇摇头，说：“上去！”
“看来我们一定还得上去些。”叔父说。
然后他问汉恩斯为什么要作此决定。
“mistour，”向导回答。
“ja,mistour,”1一位冰岛人带着恐惧的口吻重复了一遍。
1冰岛文“ja”意思是“对”，“mistour”的意思是“大风”。
“那个字是什么意思？”我急切地问。
“你看，”叔父说。
我向前看看草原，只见一大条粉状的浮石、沙粒和尘土象个旋云筒似地旋转着上升；风把它吹向斯奈弗的边缘，这正是我们急忙前进的地方；我们和太阳中间这块不透明的屏风在山上投下一个很大的影子。如果这条浮石、沙粒和尘土向我们的路上吹来，那末我们也将不可避免地被卷入这阵旋风。当风从冰河吹起来的时候，冰岛人把这种很平常的现象叫做“mistour”。
“hastigt,hastigt!”向导喊道。我虽然不懂丹麦文，也明白这是要我们尽快地跟随汉恩斯。向导开始从圆锥的边缘往上爬，弯弯曲曲地前进，这样上去比较容易些，不久尘暴打在山上，一阵震动使全山摇撼；被旋风卷起的石子仿佛经过爆发似地象雨点子那样打在地上。我们正好幸运地站在对面，所以没有遭遇到危险；如果没有向导的小心；我们会被打得血肉模糊，尸体也会化为灰尘，象剩下的陨石被抛到很远的地方。
汉恩斯认为我们在圆锥的边缘上过夜是不聪明的。我们继续弯弯曲曲地向上爬，爬过剩下的一千五百英尺，大约花了五小时。不算那些曲曲折折的路，至少也有九英里，我实在精疲力渴，而且饥寒交迫，当时稀薄的空气又不够灌满我的肺。
在晚上十一点最暗的时候，我们终于到达了斯奈弗的山顶，我们到陷口过夜以前，还有时间可以看看半夜的太阳在最低点上把它那暗淡的光射到睡着了的岛上。
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